Successful planting of fruit trees

Planting Tips If you cannot plant your tree as soon as you receive your seedling (unfavorable weather for planting: frost, strong winds, heavy rain and soggy soil), you will have to put it in a gauge either in light soil or a pile of sand. The gauge must be sheltered from the wind and exposed to the north to avoid large temperature differences between night and midday. Your trees can remain like this for several days to several weeks before final planting. Do not extend this period, if the plants develop a root system, pulling them up again would be additional stress that could slow or even harm recovery. They must therefore be planted before the start of vegetation, in February or early March. With a spade, dig a fairly deep hole (about 50 x 50 cm). It must be larger than the total number of roots. Mix well-rotted compost or manure with the soil extracted from the hole. Check that the volume of the branches is balanced with that of the root system or else, reduce the branches. Then praline* the roots (*cover the root system with a mixture of soil and water). When placing the tree, make sure that the graft point is above the hole. Orient your tree so that the main stem and branches are straight. Then cover with soil, tamping around the roots. Water generously and finish filling the hole up to ground level. Installing a stake allows the young tree to develop properly. Water regularly the first year and place mulch at the base of the tree to retain maximum moisture. Fruit tree growing tips Every two years, give your tree a natural fertilizer rich in potash and phosphorus to encourage fruit set. When young trees begin to produce, do not leave all the fruit on the branches as this exhausts it. Thin out when the fruit is the size of a marble. Leave only a few fruits per branch. This will make them bigger and tastier. Pollination of fruit trees This is an essential step in fruit production, as it allows fruit to form through fertilization. To encourage pollination, install beehives and other pollinator shelters, as well as honey-producing plants near your fruit trees. For self-sterile varieties, also called allogamous (which require fertilization by another member of their species, such as cherry trees, pear trees, apple trees, etc.), it is useful to know the complementary varieties present in the surrounding area. For pollination to be possible and to ensure a better yield, the plot must accommodate other varieties within a maximum radius of 3 km. This can be in the same garden or in the neighborhood. For self-fertile varieties, also called autogamous (which ensure their own fertilization such as apricot trees, peach trees, plum trees, etc.) it is not mandatory to have another pollinating variety. Adding one in addition nevertheless ensures a more efficient yield. Pests and diseases There are different diseases or pests that can harm the proper development of the fruit tree. It is therefore necessary to carry out regular monitoring of the trees to better detect a disease or a pest early. The most common diseases are: The most common pest is the codling moth, a butterfly that attacks many fruit trees. It penetrates inside the fruit and devours everything, even the seeds. The damage is often significant and it continues to develop in 2 or even 3 generations depending on the region. To control the codling moth from the fall, use nematodes to eliminate overwintering larvae. In the spring, use pheromones with their trap to limit fertilization. Finally, from June, use trap strips to eliminate the larvae. -Managing a fruit tree The final choice of the shape of a fruit tree depends first of all on the space available, the experience of the gardener and the time to devote to it. To help you in this choice, we detail the advantages and disadvantages of some shapes. Here are some examples, this list is not exhaustive, do not hesitate to do additional research on the form of management most suited to your land.