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Référence : 2474A

TOMATO PINK JAZZ AB

Solanum lycopersicum

Indeterminate variety producing beautiful fruits of about 300 gr, slightly flattened, pink, striped with yellow. It is mainly eaten raw.
The bag of 30 seeds
Regular price 3,80€
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Période de semis
From February to April
Période de récolte
From June to September
moderate / daily
70 cm
sun
Obsolete
120 to 150 cm
Open ground
Gelif
75 to 80 days on average
Conditionnement
The bag of 30 seeds
Référence
2474A
Cycle de vie
annual

The Pink Jazz tomato is a seasonal variety. It produces flattened, ribbed fruits weighing 300 to 650g, pink with yellow stripes, and about 10/13 cm in diameter. A mid-season variety with indeterminate growth. The flesh is beefsteak-like, juicy, with a beautiful texture and a sweet, complex fruity flavor. Vigorous plant with great growth, very good production.

The fruits have good resistance to splitting and cracking.

A recent variety from Artisan Seeds, USA. It is susceptible to Alternaria leaf spot and Septoria leaf spot: drip irrigation is recommended, as well as regular pruning of suspect or damaged leaves.

When and how to sow Pink Jazz tomatoes?

Sowing: from February to April in a warm bed (20°) or in pots indoors or in a heated greenhouse, in fine seed compost. Tomatoes need a constant minimum temperature of 20°C to germinate.
Bury your tomato seeds 1 cm deep and then cover with seed compost. Water your compost with a sprayer to keep it moist but not soggy. Place your seed tray near a window to prevent your seedlings from shooting upwards in search of light.
Transplant when frost is no longer a risk and the plants are 12 to 15 cm tall in rich, loose, healthy soil. Space 70 cm between rows and 50 cm in the sunny row.
Place the stakes in place before starting to plant. Water thoroughly at the base once a week to prevent disease development.

Should we remove suckers from tomato plants?

Opinions differ on how to approach the infamous pruning of tomatoes, and every gardener has arguments to support their theory. To the question "what to do?" the answer is simple: whatever you want!
Pruning tomatoes by de-suckering is not mandatory; it is intended to increase the size of the fruits, their precocity and to facilitate harvesting work.
This method, however, has two drawbacks: it requires time and discernment. Indeed, the head of the tomato plant is not always easy to distinguish from a secondary branch. Furthermore, removing suckers causes wounds for your plant. It is therefore strongly recommended to consider aiding healing with a dusting of maerl or a green clay wash.
Another option is to not prune at all and allow the plant to fully develop. It will therefore need more space in the garden, i.e. 1 m between each plant. The fruits will be smaller but more numerous.
A third solution is two-pronged training. After pinching the plant 20 cm from the ground, only the two lateral shoots are kept. All the suckers are then removed.

Harvest

You can harvest tomatoes 4 to 5 months after sowing.

The enemies

The main problems that can be encountered when growing tomatoes are late blight and blossom end necrosis (black bottom).
To prevent mildew, the best solution is to protect your plants if you live in a region where it rains frequently. You can also treat your plants with Bordeaux mixture.
Blossom end necrosis, or black bottom, is not a disease. It's caused either by low calcium levels in the soil or by irregular watering. When a plant lacks water, it produces less sap, and the part furthest from the stem will die due to lack of nutrients. Therefore, water regularly, thoroughly once a week, for example.

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j
jean-jacques

Bonjour
Pour la première année que je commence le jardin c’est une catastrophe.
J’ai mis les graine en mini Cère avec du terreau pour semi, à sa a bien lever, mais des qu’il à fallu enlever le couvercle de la mini Cère pour éviter que les semi ne grille au contact du couvercle, tout est tombé et tout les semi tomate; salade; poivron, que c’est il passer ?

Merci pour votre retour, nous comprenons votre déception, surtout lors de la première année de jardinage, qui peut parfois être pleine d’imprévus.

Il est fréquent que les jeunes plants, comme les tomates, salades ou poivrons, soient fragiles au moment du retrait du couvercle de la mini-serre. L’humidité élevée sous la cloche peut créer un microclimat idéal, mais le choc soudain d’air plus sec ou de lumière directe peut les faire tomber ou jaunir.

Pour limiter ce phénomène, nous vous conseillons de retirer le couvercle progressivement sur plusieurs jours, en l’écartant un peu puis en l’enlevant complètement, pour habituer doucement les semis à leur nouvel environnement. Veillez aussi à ce que le substrat reste humide sans excès, et placez la mini-serre dans un endroit lumineux mais sans soleil direct trop fort.

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